Thank You for your essay. Since turning 30 (now 33), I’ve picked up backpacking in the backcountry, mountaineering, rock climbing, irritating bicyclists as I cruise down their path on my longboard skateboard and a new career as a Counselor in Outdoor Adventure Therapy. Living in Southern California and feeling like I had achieved a certain level of competence in the mountains, this summer I turned my focus towards the Ocean. Three decent sessions over the span of seven days into my quest of being able to call myself a surfer and feeling authentic as I say it. Currently wishing I was able to paddle out past the break to ride a wave and already questioning if I had dreamed too big. I couldn’t have found this article at a better time.
Thank you for sharing your experience, strength and hope.
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